Saturday, June 15, 2024

The End of our Pan-American Road Trip

This has been a difficult blog post to write for us which is probably why it took so long for us to post it.  When we started this trip we had no idea what we were in for and now we look back on our trip envious of the days and adventures we have had.  We have had some amazing days and some trying days.  Unfortunately, the end of the trip was more inline with the latter, they were trying days.
We feel like an end of a trip like this should be triumphant, epic, and exciting; like the trip itself.  Sometimes things don't live up to your expectations, sometimes things go wrong, and sometimes a road trip is just driving on the road.

In this blog we attempt to leave Puerto Montt, Chile but are greeted with a new problem. When we finally left Puerto Montt we checked out Bariloche, Argentina and raced across the country to enter Uruguay.  Although our vehicle was almost denied entry into the country everything worked out the best it could, sort of. 

This blog ends with us saying goodbye to our van after placing it into a shipping container bound for Houston, Texas.  This bitter sweet moment of saying goodbye to our van and marking the end of our official Pan-American highway road trip is one moment we will likely not forget, even though their was far less fanfare and excitement than we had originally hoped.


March 17th to 21st – Cleaning and preparing

Our "to be cleaned" table
We spent the next couple days in our Airbnb in Puerto Montt.  Puerto Montt isn’t really a place that anyone needs to spend any large amount of time in so everything we wanted to do in the immediate area we had already done.
The idea of relaxing in the Airbnb seemed like a good idea except we had got a very inexpensive Airbnb meaning “hang out” area.  We were antsy but emotionally tired meaning we settled on cleaning the van.  We have not done a thorough cleaning of our van since we started this trip and we can attest that it was in desperate need of a deep cleaning.  This also gave us the opportunity to fix a crack in our stow and go which had developed thanks to all the dirt roads and bottoming out on speed bumps and gravel roads.  This crack is how we flooded the stow and go storage area.

Hopefully this will make our
stow and go waterproof
Cleaning ever surface

On March 20th we learned our parts were finally at the mechanics, but they would be unable to work on our vehicle until the following day, so assuming this would be our final day or two in the area we left Rupert at the Airbnb and took a taxi to the resort community of Puerto Varas, the capital of Chile’s Lakes region.

Coffee and a view!!
Puerto Varas was super touristy and expensive.  This wasn’t necessarily a bad thing.  It was nice to walk around the busy streets, purchasing treats and relaxing in cafes.  The whole area was earnestly beautiful and made us wish we had spent the last week here rather than Puerto Montt.  However, I know our bank accounts thanked us for not staying in an Airbnb/hotel in the area.  They were a bit out of our budget.

By the 21st we were ecstatic, we couldn’t believe that by the end of the day we would have a working vehicle and we would be back on the road exploring.  We felt we just had one last obstacle to overcome; the drive to the mechanic’s shop.

For reasons we don’t fully understand the fuel pump fails when we are going down a hill and Puerto Montt is full of hills with the location of our Airbnb requiring us to drive down many hills.  What followed was one of the most stressful drives we had done since being towed out of Bolivia.  Our van stalled no less than 6 times in rush-hour traffic while going down hills. It is a miracle we didn’t crash into anyone because as soon as the vehicle stopped our brakes and steering became far more manual and required a lot of extra effort to engage.  It was all worth it though when we finally arrived and were told to come back around closing time.

We had hoped that by the end of the day we would be back on the road and heading towards Argentina however, when we arrived the van wouldn’t start.  The mechanics were dumbfounded.  They had replaced the fuel pump and taken for a test drive and everything seemed fine, yet right now the van refused to start.  The electronic troubleshooting device kept saying no fuel was reaching the fuel pump.  The mechanics assumed that we were out of fuel but when that theory was proven incorrect they apologized and said that we will need to leave the vehicle at the shop for one more day.  We prayed we didn’t need another fuel pump.    Before we left the mechanic went and showed us all the work they had done and reaffirmed why we needed a new fuel pump and struts.  It was amazing just how much damage to our suspension we had done over the last year of driving through South America .

 


March 22nd  to 23rd – Heartbreak and Anger

The next morning, we got the text we were hoping for.  They had found the issue and the van was ready.  We rushed down to the mechanics where we got the full picture of what the mechanic in San Pedro had done.  Not only did he just (poorly) “fix” our fuel pump when he said he had replaced it.  He had rewired some of the wiring to the fuel pump to ensure it was quasi functional.  His odd wiring was causing these issues.  Thankfully the issue was found and corrected.

We thought everything was fixed...

We drove the van around downtown and everything seemed perfect.  We were ecstatic! 

Our minds quickly switched to route planning.  We decided we would drive directly to Bariloche, Argentina then make our way to Salta, over to Paraguay into Brazil then south through Uruguay to the port of Montevideo where our vehicle would start its journey back to North America.  We had a plan and couldn’t wait to actualize it.  

That doesn't look right
After returning with the van to our Airbnb we packed it up and decided to go out for dinner to celebrate the end of our issues.  As we drove to a restaurant we started to hear an odd high pitched sound coming from the rear tires.  There was a problem.

Heartbroken we turned around and in the rain in a grocery store parking lot we troubleshooted this issue.  It appeared that we needed new rear bearings which we would have to order from the US.  We wouldn’t be going anywhere. 

It doesn't look it but this pump
had some odd mortifications
There was a chance that maybe our bearing was okay and that there was just some foreign material in-between the brake pads and rotor.  It was unlikely as it was the wrong sound, but we were hopeful so on Saturday March 23rd we decided to drive to a mechanic that was open on a Saturday to see what they thought.  It didn’t take them long to diagnosis the issue, a bad rear bearing and tell us that we needed new ones but they didn’t know where we would be able to find one.  Thankfully we knew exactly where to buy them from; rockauto.com.

We decided to purchase the bearing, in fact we decided to purchase all new rear and front bearings mostly because we wouldn’t be able to forgive ourselves if we replace the rear bearings just to have the front ones fail before we arrived in Uruguay. 


A brewery started by a man from
Alberta that still loves the Oilers enroute
to our campground!

We considered booking the Airbnb for another night but found the idea of looking or staying any longer in Puerto Montt heartbreaking.  We wanted to stay in our van again, we didn’t want to spend $70 CAD a night for an undesirable apartment.  Camping in the area was out of the question as the only place that people have successfully camped in the area is a quasi lover’s lane where young couple go to play loud music to mask any other sounds coming from their vehicle.

After weighing our options, having some tough conversations and reading multiple blogs and forums we felt we could drive with the bad bearing into the Lakes region of Chile.  We knew this was a gamble as if the bearing seized it would likely put an end to our trip but what sort of trip are we even having right now?  Wedesperately needed a change of scenery.  We needed to do something that may make us happy. We decided that we would drive to a campground in the lake region so we could be surrounded by nature and beauty of the Chilian lakes region.

It was only 50 kilometers to the campground we wanted to camp at, however that was using the highway something we thought to avoid.  The last thing we want is the bearing to seize going 110 km/h so we meandered on country roads going as slow as we read we should drive. 

Rupert had to investigate the
local wildlife at the campground

Our view from our campsite


Halfway through the drive we decided to stop for a break and let our bearings cool down.  It gave us the opportunity to check out a local brewery which we had read was run by an American, but we learned was opened by an Albertan from Bentley.  We didn’t know this at the time but had a feeling it was as soon as we walked in and saw tons of Edmonton Oilers memorabilia displayed on the walls.   We ended up chatting with the owner for some time who was amazed we had driven from Canada to Chile.  For a short time, we forgot our problem and just enjoyed the company of another English speaking person.



After an hour or so we jumped back into the van an arrived at a campground in Frutillar Bajo.  The community was cute but not busy and the view was amazing.  What we liked even more was that the weather was far less rainy here meaning we could actually enjoy the outside as well.

 

March 24rd to 31st – Camping and loving it!

Celebrating that we are doing something!

We stayed in the Frutillar Bajo area for 5 nights.  Every day we would walk down the cafes and restaurants near the shores of Lake Llanquihue and we just enjoyed our surroundings.  We played games, cooked good food and tried to forget our concerns about the van and its need to be on the other side of the continent it a month.  We laughed and started to smile again.  It seemed we had made the correct decision.

Lake side camping!

Paul reading the bill and test result from
Kendra's doctor visit
Halfway thorough our time Kendra started to get quite sick.  She had developed an infection and the pain was causing her to throw up.  She kept assuming the infection would just go away on its own but finally she decided to experience Chilean health care.  The only clinic nearby was an emergency room in the rural hospital.  We think that Kendra may have been the only tourist who has ever been to this hospital.  Thankfully for us the emergency room wasn’t very busy and lucky for Kendra there was a med student who spoke some English.  Paul even got a front row seat to one nurse running around the hospital looking for someone who knew some English.  It probably wasn’t necessary but it was kind of funny and very endearing.

As an aside we do not have travel insurance any longer, the maximum amount of time we could get it for was one year.  This wasn’t really a concern for us as we have learned just how inexpensive healthcare is outside of Canada, USA and Mexico.  To see a doctor, get some blood tests and some antibiotics was around $50 CAD which is around the same price Paul paid in Colombia for his ear infection and half the cost Kendra paid to get all her bloodwork redone and a prescription of Synthroid in Ecuador.

Living a cafe life!

By the end of the week, we were ready for another change of scenery so decided to move to another community just 20 kilometres away called Llanquihue where we visited new restaurants and cafes while camping at the beach. 



By Sunday we received an email from DHL saying our parts would be delivered to the mechanic on Monday so we reached out and made an appointment for our bearing on Tuesday and decided we would return to Puerto Montt the following day.





Paul set up a little easter egg
hunt for Kendra
Rupert getting in the easter spirt


April 1st – 3rd – Are we April’s Fools?!

We were in no rush to return to Puerto Montt so we spent all day driving the 30 kms or so back the big city.  We stopped into Puerto Varas and once again explored the area before driving to the only camping spot in Puerto Montt the quasi lover’s lane. 

This is how we like to kill time...
...waiting for our vehicle.

We learned we had another issue with the van as we drove through rush-hour traffic into Puerto Montt.  The sound of a failing drive belt filled our ears and we knew we would have to relace it.  We were sure that we wouldn’t be able to buy one in Chile, but much to our surprise our size of belt was available in local parts stores. Unfortunately, we didn’t learn this until the next day meaning we had a very restless sleep where we listened to some loud music from couples in cars that had parked close to the van.

We debated getting a hotel for the day while the mechanic replaced our bearings and drive belt but instead walked and took public transportation all around Puerto Montt with the dog.  For 8 hours we travelled from cafĂ© to shopping mall to restaurant and back.  Kendra bought jeans and we purchased a pet carrier for Rupert for when we fly home, something we had read people struggle to find in Argentina and Uruguay. 

Finally nearing the end of the day, we were told our van is ready to go.  They said they had really struggled replacing the bearings as the sea air and Bolivia salt flats had really seized the bearing into the hub.  Probably for the best we replaced everything.  We thanked the mechanics again and drove.

We were so excited to be on road and debated just how far we wanted to travel.  We considered driving all the way to Argentina but decided to “only” drive a couple hours since the sun was going to set in an hour.  However, we only made it 20 minutes out of Puerto Montt.

During our route planning we realized that we would be unable to have a shower for the next week unless we stopped at a truck stop just north of Puerto Montt.  As we had spent the day in the cold and hadn’t showered in almost a week so we decided we needed to stop and thank God we did.

Smokin!

As we stopped the van the smell of brakes filled our nostrils.  One of the rear brakes was smoking.  Even after taking off the tire (using our oven mitt since the lug nuts were too hot to touch) we didn’t know why the brakes were smoking.  With the oven mitt Paul could turn the wheel so his only guess was they didn’t install the bearing correctly.

We felt so foolish and worried about the damage we may have already done to the vehicle by driving it in this condition.  We feared we would need to order new parts which would make it impossible to reach Uruguay in time.  If our vehicle needed additional work we decided that we would abandon it; it felt like repairing this vehicle was a fool’s errand. 

A common camping spot that some more frugal overlanders use is 24 hour gas stations.  We prided ourselves on never camping at a gas station but said we would do so only in an emergency situation.   Today we knew we had to camp at a gas station further adding to our downward emotional spiral.   Thank god you can’t buy alcohol at gas stations in Chile because we were emotionally wrecked.

We had sent a message to the mechanic asking him to help us and the next morning he respond and offered to drive to the gas station to fix the issue.  The problem ended up being a lack of lubricant something that took him 10 minutes to fix.

Hopefully the final fix

Before he left he made us do a long test drive to make sure everything was good.  We were happy to not see any smoke or feel any hot lug nuts after 50 kilometres of driving .  However, our steering wheel was no longer driving straight. 

We returned to the gas station and told him everything was good, even though there was now an issue with steering.  We did not have the emotional capacity to say anything about it or deal with it at all. 

The drive towards the Argentina border was full of research into why I needed to turn the steering wheel to the left to go straight.  Our minds went to the worst case scenario.  We decided to drive the van and just get it to Bariloche.  If the trip was over because our van has another issue we’d prefer to reassess our lives and our plans in a beautiful, accessible and cheaper place.

Back camping in Argentina!

The drive to Argentina was beautiful through a mountain pass with a bit of snow and the van, although not driving straight, did drive well with no mystery sounds or smells.  After 7 hours in the van and an hour at the border we reached Bariloche.  It was surreal to finally drive into the community (that we thought we would be in for Christmas).  We were happy but exhausted so found one of the few free places to camp in the area and settled in for the night. Free camping spots are hard to come by in the area but we had managed to find one that gave us a beautiful view of the area, it just required us to sleep on a weird angle.

The weather was starting to change

What a view, we even got a rainbow!
 


April 4th – One day in Bariloche

Our original plan was to spend a week or so in Bariloche but thanks to vehicle issues we only had the day.  Although a potentially controversial decision we are okay cutting our time in Bariloche.  It is a beautiful place, but it is also very similar to the Rocky Mountains of Canada which we would hopefully be seeing again in the next few months.  The other issue is crime.  This place is notorious amongst overlanders and those who rent vehicles due to the large amount of break ins.  It has become the norm for rental car companies to warn renters about parking anywhere in the community, even paid parking lots.    If we ever come back to Argentina we would love to return to Bariloche but we are just too fearful of getting a window smashed and having another vehicle issue to tend to.

 




Our morning "hike"

With breakfast at the top!



Exploring the
community of Bariloch
e

The whole area is known for amazing camping but a quick look at iOverlander showed us that every trailhead has a warning for break-ins.  We couldn’t not go up a mountain for a view of the area so we decided to take a chairlift from a “safe” parking lot to the top of Cerro Campanario.  Our early morning “expedition” up the mountain was amazing.  Just as we arrived to the top the rain that had plagued us most of the morning stopped and we were greeted with a rainbow overlooking the entire area and since it was so early we had the entire viewpoint more or less to ourselves.

Our next stop was within the community of Bariloche.  Yesterday we had made an appointment with an alignment specialist which seemed like the perfect person to fix our issue with the van (or at least tell us how difficult it would be to fix).  This also gave us a few hours where the van was safely inside a garage so we could explore the community without fear of a break-in.  The community itself is very cute but extremely touristy.  A few hours is probably all you need to spend in the community as it consists mostly of expensive tourist shops and tourist traps. 


After a few hours we got the message saying our van was fixed and good to go.  It was just out of alignment after all the repairs to the suspension.  We were ecstatic and decided to spend the rest of the day driving from Bariloche through the “famous” seven lakes route towards San Martin de los Andes.  We had heard great things about this drive and was told that there were many viewpoints throughout the trip.  For us; however, I think the drive is overhyped.  There are so many better and more beautiful drives south of this area in southern Patagonia that the drive had us missing what we had seen or looking forward to driving in the Rockies within Canada/USA.

Views from the Lakes district


One of the seven lakes
Bariloche is a beautiful area and we would love to return without a vehicle and do it properly, especially since there is public transportation from downtown to most of the main trailheads.  We feel like we only got a taste of what our time in Bariloche could have been but unfortunately sacrifices must be made.

Camping in the seven lakes area

 

April 5th to 7th – The Race to Uruguay

Starting our journey before sunrise

Our vehicle is to be loaded into a shipping container in Montevideo Uruguay on April 17th which is over 2000 kilometres away.  We estimated that it would take us roughly 3 days to drive there if we drive all day. Therefore if all goes according to plan we will have a week and a half with our van in Uruguay.

Now you may be wondering why we are prioritizing Uruguay over Barlioche or anywhere else in Argentina.  Well the answer is pretty simple.  We don’t trust our van’s reliability and don’t want to get “stuck” in Argentina where it is extremely hard, if not impossible, to get vehicle parts for our van due to their high importation costs and government bureaucracy.  We also didn’t want to half-ass our time in Uruguay.  We wanted to be able to say that we, by our own definition, properly saw the country as this is something that in general we feel about every country we visited.

Sunset in La Pampa
The drive was through the area of Argentina known as La Pampa, which translates to grasslands. It has the same feel as driving through the Canadian prairies.  There are some things to do but depending on our route through La Pampa there may be nothing to see.  Since we took the quickest route there was not much to see so we barely took any photos.

On our first day we woke up to -1 degrees showing that winter has arrived to Patagonia, we drove until we reached the rural town of Casa de Piedra, Argentina’s newest community.

The next day we officially left Patagonia and reached Buenos Aires province and camped beside a lake in the community of Bragado where we were treated to one of the most spectacular sunsets we had ever seen.  Paul is convinced that it was his reward for helping an Argentinian who was struggling to start his car.



The final driving day we drove to the border town of Gualeguaychu where we would prepare our “doguments” to allow Rupert entry into Uruguay.  We celebrated by going out for a meal before finding a spot to camp for the night which proved to be more difficult than we first anticipated due to massive flooding that has affected the area and the army of mosquitos that the standing water had allowed to thrive.

At the vet
We have the "dog"uments

 

April 8th – The vans final border

Made it to Uruguay!!

April 8th would be the final day our van would be in Argentina.  We woke up not too sure how to feel, but kept away sad thoughts of the end of our trip by frantically running around Gualeguaychu to a vet to get all Rupert's paperwork in order for SENASA, the government department, who prepares animal export documentation for other countries.  Uruguay has a unique requirement for entry for dogs, dogs must test negative for Leishmaniasis.  This potentially deadly disease is contracted by sand flies, and although we had been in contact with sand flies, many times, Rupert had no symptoms so we were hopeful that Rupert had not contracted this disease.  We had learned of people getting false positives with this test that caused them a lot of issues and delays to enter Uruguay, something we couldn’t afford to have happen, either way we were a little stressed that the test would say it was positive.  We held our breath as the vet drew blood and spun it in a plasma centrifuge.  We finally exhaled when the vet said he had tested negative.

First night in Uruguay

Our next step was to take all the paperwork to SENASA and get the exportation document.  The only issue is that we had to pay in cash at a third party bill payment company and we didn’t have very much cash since we were leaving Argentina soon.  After more running around and an hour in line we had paid for the certificate and had done everything we needed to do to enter Uruguay with the dog so we decided to head to the border. 

In general, we are always very prepared for borders and in general have never been worried that we wouldn’t be allowed in.  Well Uruguay ended up being the 2nd country where we had issues entering.  As some may remember we had a lot of difficulty entering Guatemala since Paul’s passport omits his middle name, but the documents for the van from ICBC do not.  Previously it only took 10 minutes of discussion with the Guatemalan officials about how one document was federal and the other was provincial and that middles names aren’t that important in Canada and we were able to get our paperwork.  Well, the Uruguayans did not believe Paul and for a while refused to provide us with a vehicle import document for the van.  Rupert was legally in, we were in, but our van was stuck at the border.

A monument to the animals
slaughtered in Fray Bentos

The Uruguayans had a host of concerns about the temporary importation of the van.  First there was the name issue, but secondly the insurance and registration for the van is on a normal piece of paper.  Its not laminated, or on cardstock and definitely does not contain any security features.  Similar to our border experience in Panama, they just didn’t believe that this was a real document and even if it was what was stopping us from illegally altering it. 

Paul explained as best he could the situation and that we already had a spot in a shipping container to return the van to North America but they were unfazed by his pleas. 

30 minutes at the border in limbo dragged on for what felt like an eternity as we wondered what was going to happen until one of the younger border guards asked Paul to walk with them back to the Argentina side to see if there were any oddities with any of our previous border crossings with Argentina.   In a small room Paul sat down and saw a list of every border into and out of Argentina we had ever done.  Each one referenced Paul and our Dodge Grand Caravan.  After a bit of discussion between the Argentinians and the Uruguayans they said, okay, we will temporarily import your vehicle.  Relief flooded over us.

Celebrations were short lived as we began our typical day 1 tasks in a country.  We needed food and a new SIM card for our phone but we also needed cash to purchase a lot of these things.  Our first Uruguayan city was known as Fray Bentos and although it had at least one bank, it wouldn’t work with our debit card.  Usually this is when we would turn to iOverlander to find banks but there was no information about the area on the app.  We found this really odd since most overlanders need to come to Uruguay to ship their vehicle home so its not like no one comes here.  What we would learn later is that no one comes to this area of Uruguay that most take the ferry from Buenos Aires to Colonia meaning these extreme western communities are rarely visited.

We did eventually find a bank that would take accept our card and after an hour we had everything we needed for a successful time in Uruguay.  We purchased a couple drinks and made our way to a camping spot for the night overlooking the water.  It was beautiful and we could not stop smiling.  We had made it to Uruguay!  We would make it to the port of Montevideo, and we would be able to ship our van home for future adventures.

Looking out to the old meat packaging plant from our camping spot

 

April 9th – Historical Meat and Great Wine

Exploring a UNESCO Slaughter house

Our campsite overlooked the historical Anglo Meat Processing plant which is both an UNESCO world heritage site and the Uruguayan industrial revolution museum.  This site is one very few UNESCO sites related to food and the only one related to meat processing, but this site played a pivotal role in both world wars feeding the front lines on both sides and creating processes and methods to store and preserve meat which was then transported all around the world.  It was a very interesting place with English speaking guides from Germany.   We can say we enjoyed it far more than we thought we would.

Loving the wine

An hour or so south of Fray Bentos and the UNESCO site was Uruguay’s wine region known as Carmelo.  We had heard that it is expensive but worth your time so we researched what wineries would be open, especially since it was the off season, and the costs.  We were super surprised to read that the prices for tasting were around $40 cad per person, but at least they included food.  Regardless we decided we would only go to one winery.  The winery we decided upon was Almacen de la Capilla and, we can’t believe we are going to say this, but it was worth it!

We have had many good wines but Paul’s favourite has become the wine of Uruguay, their Tannat.  Fun fact Argentina is known for Malbecs and Chile is known for Carmenere.  The tasting glasses were large and the meat and cheese that came with it was exquisite.  We couldn’t help ourselves and bought a few bottles to open at celebratory times (in the next week or so before we ship the van).  We definitely blew the budget for today but Uruguay is known for being very expensive and we had been prewarned that it is a country that will test anyone’s budget.


Rupert always thinks he's helping

Uruguay is supposed to have some of the best beach side camping in South America so we were excited to end our trip by doing what we had loved to do in Mexico and Central America, sleeping beside the ocean and tonight Uruguay did not disappoint.  We drove a few extra kilometres to the community of Puerto Ingles where we donned our bathing suits and swam in the ocean while enjoy our view.  Hopefully today is the start of many great days in Uruguay.  This is also our first time to be moved along from a campsite. We had a nice beach front parking a little bit away from the public toilets, but we were told in order to camp we would need to park beside a BBQ grill closer to the toilets, so we moved the van 100 metres and we were good to go for the night.

A quick dip in Uruguay

 

April 10th – Cross Country Road Trip


Before we enter a country we do a lot of independent research to determine what are the must see things for us in a country.  From this information we start formulating a basic route between where we enter the country and where we would eventually leave the country from.  We knew we would leave the country from Montevideo in the centre of the country so it made the most sense to properly do the western area then quickly drive to the eastern area before eventually heading to the centre.


The most historical street
in the community

We left Puerto Ingles and drove to Colonia del Sacramento, another UNESCO world heritage site and one of the oldest communities in Uruguay.  It was a cute place and we were happy to wander its old cobblestone streets and admire its colourful buildings.   It is built far differently than most colonial towns we had visited as all other colonial place were built by the Spanish while Colonia del Sacramento was built by the Portuguese.  The biggest difference between Spanish and Portuguese colonial buildings is that Spain built communities in a grid while the Portuguese built roads and landmarks that followed the natural contours of the land.


  

The community was beautiful

After taking tons of pictures and walking down every cobblestone road we decided to get a coffee until we looked at the prices of things.  Unfortunately, we think this may become a common theme during our time in Uruguay.  This country is known as the most expensive country in South America with many German and Swiss people complaining that everything is the same price as back home.  We decided to save our money (since we can brew our own coffee) and head towards Uruguay’s east coast.

Quite randomly as we were driving we received a message from our friends that we had made in Bolivia, Katarina and Micheal.  We sadly had not seen them since Bolivia but had messaged a few times hoping that our paths would cross.  They messaged us saying that they were preparing to ship their vehicle back to Europe and that they were just outside of Montevideo, which happened to only be an hour or so away from our current location. After cooking lunch on the side of the road in front of a rural school we made our way to their location.  We can not begin to explain how much we enjoyed our visit with our friends. We laughed and shared stores but unfortunately all good things have to come to an end so we said our goodbyes and headed towards somewhere to camp.

So happy to see these gems again!


We reached the furthest we could drive as the sun was setting.  After a quick look at iOverlander the only place that made sense was in a community we can’t remember hidden in the trees beside a river.  Now you may wonder why we didn’t stay with our friends for the night, it was because the campground was only for Europeans.  This is something we have heard happens from time to time but this campground was well known in the community, if you are not European you are not welcome.  It’s amazing places like this exist in today’s world.

 




April 11th – Beach Life


Uruguay is known for its beaches; in fact, we had recently learned the population of Uruguay doubles to around 7 million in the summer as Brazilians and Argentinians flock the various beach communities around the country.  After hearing that Brazilians like these beaches more than their own we were excited to see what it was like to live Uruguayan beach life. 

We arrived and the beaches were beautiful, but not quite what we had expected.  We lately have been really missing beach side camping that we experienced in Mexico and Central America.  This issue we were having was the temperature.

The beautiful Uruguay beaches

Our first stop on our beach road trip around Uruguay is Punta del Diablo near the Brazilian border.  We can tell that this is a massive party community with lots of things to do in the summer, but right now it was a ghost town.  All the hotels, restaurants, bars and kiosks of people selling their goods were closed with nothing telling us they would be open any time soon.  It was a little disappointing.

Napping on the beach

After affirming that there was nothing to do in the community we headed to the beach to relax.  We would have stayed there longer but we got cold so we turned our attention to finding somewhere to camp for the night that would give us a beautiful view of the ocean.  We tried a few of our tricks from Central America to find some amazing beach side camping but nothing seemed to work.  After driving down a road that a 2 wheel drive vehicle has no business driving down and being disappointed by the result we finally gave up and drove to a mirador that we hoped would have a nice view.

Our camping spot for the night was okay, we could walk to a spot with a nice view, but our actual spot was surrounded by palm trees with no real view of the water, it did; however, give us a perfect spot to have a BBQ, which is exactly how we spent our night.



April 12th – Finding what we were looking for

Paul spent the morning looking at every single possible camping spot between Punta del Diablo and Punta del Este.  We wanted our beach side camping and decided we would do anything to get it.  We drove from spot to spot hoping to find the perfect place for ourselves.  It took a few hours and extra gas, something we really didn’t want to spend money on as gas in Uruguay is around $3 CAD a litre.  In the end we did find our perfect spot just outside the community of La Paloma.

After a quick stop to buy a few essentials and a bottle of wine (or two) [for a small fortune] we returned to our little piece of perfection, set up the van to listen to music and podcasts and spent the day enjoying the sun and looking at the beach.  We finally had our Uruguayan beach day and it was amazing.

 April 13th – Same feeling different location

We had recently learned that the Uruguayan rich and famous favourite place to relax was a community called Faro de Jose Ignacio which was just an hour away.  We checked out the community but found the same things we had found in other resort communities; since it was the off season the community was a ghost town.  We did stop at the lighthouse that gives the community its name(Faro is lighthouse in Spanish) and stopped at a few artisanal shops but didn’t purchase anything.  We looked for a camping spot near the community but nothing gave us a view we wanted so we continued west.

Just outside of Punta del Este Kendra found another perfect camping spot near the water.  Unfortunately, the rain had started a bit so we spent the day mostly playing games and reminiscing about our trip.

Nearing the evening Paul started to cook dinner, as normal and when we were about 90% done the meal our propane went empty. We knew we were low but assumed we would make due until we reached Montevideo.  Running out of propane made us ask ourselves a lot of questions mostly related to if we should continue camping. These conversations continued late into the evening.

 

Board games in the
van during the rain

At the famous lighthouse













April 14th – An anticlimactic end of camping across the Americas.

We woke up to pouring rain.  The weather forecast was no better.  The next few days are also filled with rain.  We sat in the van looking at our three issues.  It would rain for the foreseeable future, we couldn’t cook as we were out of propane and we were out of clean clothes.  We could fill up our propane bottle, but that would have been costly and we would have to empty it to ship it back to North America.

We came to a sad realization, that we were done.  We had no will to continue to live in a van for the next 3 days so we booked an Airbnb in the closest community of Punta del Este.  We set up the tripod and took one last picture of us camping in South America.  We didn’t celebrate, we didn’t mourn, it seemed we were more in shock.  We packed up the van and drove to our Airbnb.

Our last campsite in South America!
When we arrived, we started our laundry but mostly just hung around.  Thinking and wondering how the trip had come to such an anticlimactic end.  It seems since Puerto Montt we couldn’t recreate the amazing adventures and times we felt we had become used to.  It’s why this blog has become so hard to write.  We had hoped Uruguay would be a country we would love and enjoy celebrating our accomplishments in but due to weather, timing and probably a few internal feelings we felt lost and disappointed in deciding to spend so much time in this country instead of going to other places in Argentina.



April 15th & 16th – Exploring together for the last time

Hand near the Ocean, by the same artist
who created the hand in the desert in Chile.

We spent the last few days preparing the van and ourselves for the trip to Montevideo to load our vehicle into the shipping container.  We’ve always seen this trip consisting of 4 entities and whenever one of those entities is missing the trip feels a bit off.  As we have always seen the van as an entity (with the other three being us and Rupert) it felt like these were the last few days we would be exploring together for the foreseeable future.

At the Marijana Museum



We explored the city of Punta Del Este by driving downtown and to the various other site around the area.  The city had a large permanent population but built to accommodate so many more people than those who live there year round giving us the feeling that the community was dying with many buildings boarded up.  Obviously this was not a permanent closure just seasonal.

We celebrated our final day together with a BBQ at our Airbnb.  It was surreal, we knew it was the end of our trip, we knew we wanted the trip to end but were also scared of our post trip future.

 

BBQ/Parilla makes everything better

April 17th – The End of our Pan-American Road Trip

Our loading time was 2pm in Montevideo, around 2 hours away from Punta del Este.  Beside a busy road we returned everything we had removed from the van and placed it into a logical spot where it would not fall or damage anything.  We disconnected our solar system and made sure that the battery would work once we retrieve the van in Houston.  We did not want a repeat of Cartagena.

Paul working hard.
Rupert hardly working...

We made it to the port
The drive was fine, the most eventful moment was driving through our final toll booth.  We haven’t mentioned it before, but toll booths in Uruguay are either the best or the worst depending on your licence plate.  All toll booths are automatic and you can prepay your tolls online, we had prepaid in person at our first toll.  99% of people drive through the toll with no issue, but frustratingly the toll booth can not seem to read our license plate meaning we end up sitting at the toll booth until someone hundreds of kilometres away gets around to looking at the cameras and manually deducts the cost of the toll and opens the gate.  Obviously everyone behind us is not thrilled with this situation.  An oddity with the toll system in Uruguay is that you must register your vehicle, and since our vehicle is not from Uruguay we have to select what country the vehicle is from and we couldn’t select Canada because it wasn’t listed. When we asked the clerk who we were registering our license plate with, her response was “You could select USA because they are the same”… we obliged but we were not impressed. Surprisingly, two countries that were listed were North Korea and Turkmenistan??? (yes the drop down also included the three question marks).

We only made one stop in Montevideo before heading to the port, we stopped in at the Airbnb we had rented for a few days to drop Rupert off as well as the two bags we would be living out of for the next month or so and Rupert’s crate.  We then made our way to the port.

Unlike in Panama Kendra was able to come to the port with Paul and experience the loading process.  We first met up with our container buddies right outside of the entrance to the port and waited for a representative from the shipping company to meet us.  From there we all entered the port and completed customs paperwork for Uruguay.  This mostly consisted of cancelling our temporary import permit for the van so we could legally leave Uruguay without the vehicle.  Lastly we drove to the loading area and drove our van into the shipping container.  Because of the size of our van, it is incredibly easy for us to load into a shipping container, unlike our container buddies who had quite a bit more to do.  They had to remove everything from on top of their vehicle (vent fans, solar panels, roof rack and storage box), lower the air pressure in their tires and put extra weight in the back of their vehicle to lower it enough to squeeze into the container.  Before we knew it the process was done and our van was locked away not to be seen again until Houston. 

Right before leaving Paul reached into his pockets are realized he made a mistake, he was supposed to leave the keys in the van for unloading, but in the excitement of the day had forgotten to do so.  Since we have no plans to be in Houston until it is absolutely necessary we gave our keys to our container buddies as they needed to be in Houston far before us since they decreased their air pressure in one of their tires too much and broke the bead.  They would be able to give our keys to the proper people when it is time to unload.

Lots of room for the van, but not a lot of room for Paul to get out.

The four of us left the port and headed to our respective Airbnbs.  We did chat about having a celebratory meal together but it seemed the same phenomena happened to both of us.  When we reached our respective Airbnbs we all thought to lie down for a moment.  That moment stretched into the night and by the time we woke up we were more exhausted than we had ever been.  The van was gone and our trip was over.  We had 6 weeks to get to Houston but we didn’t have any plane tickets booked to get us there. 

The last photo of us and our "trusty" stead in South America!

Our trip was over, but the adventure was far from being completed.  We did have ideas of how we would spend the next month or so as well as how we would spend our time as we try to rejoin the real world, but that is a story for another time.

This marks the end.  We are so happy we did the trip.  We have no regrets and a lifetime worth of memories.  We wish the last few weeks were more triumphant but that’s life.  Words and sentences can not express the feelings we have and want to convey.  We feel like we have completed our own rite of passage and have accomplished something that has challenged us to our core and made us incredibly proud of ourselves.  Every day wasn’t perfect but every day was worth it!

The End of our Pan-American Road Trip

This has been a difficult blog post to write for us which is probably why it took so long for us to post it.  When we started this trip we h...