July 17th – This trip just got international!
We drove north to Stewart which is a border town with “the friendliest ghost town in Alaska” meaning we could officially cross a border and make this an international trip. We had recently been to Stewart (this time last year, but the border was closed due to COVID restrictions) and spent a lot of time within the community so we decided to drive straight to the border and then up the gravel roads to the Salmon Glacier. Unfortunately, due to low clouds, we were not able to see the glacier in all its glory but based on what we saw as we drove up it is well worth the drive.
Fish Creek, a location in Hyder known for bears was a disappointment. The US Government makes tourists, like us, pay $5 USD to walk along a boardwalk when no bears were present and we had to purchase it before we entered the US (due to lack of cell service in Hyder). If we could have purchased the passes at Fish Creek, we would have decided against it, since the salmon run hadn’t begun yet.
The highlight of Hyder was the Glacier Inn, a must-do. Even if you do not drink, the Glacier Inn is a cool place to visit with money lining the walls. The money is placed during the “good times" so that you can still buy yourself a drink if the bad times ever hit. We asked, and yes people definitely take the money back from time to time.
We spent a couple hours chatting up the bartender about life in Hyder and Alaska
and taking in our surroundings. We would
have stayed longer but we had to cross a border and driving from the bar smelling
of booze probably wouldn’t be a good look for us.
Kendra decided to be the person to drive across the border. Now the Stewart border is known for junior
border guards who take their job very seriously, but we were prepared. We had filled in the Arrivecan app, had our
passports, and Rupert’s paperwork showing he was vaccinated for Rabies (it also
shows he was vaccinated for Coronavirus which I wasn’t expecting).
Unfortunately Kendra, after stopping at the stop sign proceeded to drive to the
window/border waiting area; which according to the border guards we were not
supposed to do. We were supposed to wait
at the stop sign. Paul also annoyed the
border guards as he got out of the vehicle to go into the office, he was told
in a stern voice to “Return to the vehicle”. Bryan (the border guard) took his
job very seriously and asked us a lot of questions. When we didn’t mention the disappointing
glacier view or the boardwalk at Fish Creek he seemed a bit suspicious of why
we went to Hyder, but we were not about to admit we only went there to drink.
Anyways, they had no reason to detain us so they let us back
into the country. We headed to a small campground just outside of Stewart and
relaxed for the rest of the night.
July 18th – Heading North
The landscape of highway 37 is described as rugged and
beautiful by Tourist Information. This
is an apt description, most of the highway is paved, with mountains surrounding
us in various locations.
The highlight of the day was eating greasy burgers from Bell
2, it had been a while since we had had a greasy meal and Paul was craving one,
and Paul at least go the greasiest most delicious burger, 10/10 would buy
again. Kendra got a savoury pie, also
good, but not as good as the burger.
We pulled into Sawmill Point Rec site for the night and sat
watching the sunset on Dease Lake.
July 19th – 20th – Boy Oh Boya
We left Sawmill Point relatively early and headed to Jade city
for some free coffee and to look at all their Jade sculptures and
trinkets. We even bought ourselves a
little Christmas ornament. *Random but fun fact about the GoGoGauthiers- we
used to buy cookbooks on our travels but began running out of storage space so we
have now begun purchasing Christmas ornaments so we can reminisce about our
trips as we set up our Christmas tree.
Highway 37 is known as the Stewart Cassiar highway, we had
been to Stewart so we decided to go to Cassiar which was just off the highway
north of Jade City. Cassiar is a ghost
town that is mostly closed to the public.
Cassiar was closed in the early 90s, and the community existed as a location
for the Asbestos mine workers to live.
We did a little drive around but started to feel a bit uncomfortable
when looking at the ground and seeing asbestos.
After leaving Cassiar we drove straight to Tā Ch'ilā Provincial
Park, better known as Boya Lake. This
lake is gorgeous and with few mosquitos and a lakeside camping spot it
solidified our decision to say for two nights.
We spent the next two days relaxing, canoeing around the
lake, reading and playing games. It was
great. Boy oh Boya you’ve got to come to
Boya Lake.
July 21st – Yukon bound
After a quick breakfast, we left Boya Lake and headed to the
Yukon (then back across the BC border, then back into the Yukon because of the
highway route). We were in desperate
need of groceries, among other things like a mosquito net. We also hadn’t been in a cell service area
for about 5 days and knew our families may be getting worried.
After a long 5-6 hours of driving, we reached Whitehorse,
did our grocery shopping and went to visitor information which informed us that there
was a farmers market occurring at that moment so we walked Rupert to the park
and bought some local food, grabbed some meals for some food trucks and had a
beer in their beer gardens. YES, it is a
farmers’ market with a beer garden! And YES,
the whole place is dog friendly.
Kendra and I had been to Whitehorse for Spring Break a few years ago (March 2017)
and loved it, and in the summertime, Whitehorse is also amazing. Don’t be surprised if this is the community
Kendra and I settle in after this adventure, it is honestly one of our favourite
Canadian cities.
Definitely, a great spot to sleep. We will hang around Whitehorse for a short amount of
time and then make our way north towards Tuktoyaktuk!
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