Colombia with an O, not a U.

This blog is about our first couple weeks in Colombia.  Things have been less expensive than other countries on this trip, the heat and humidity have become almost unbearable at times, our autocorrect is learning that Colombia is acceptable, and our adventures have continued!

June 7^th – Kendra’s arrival into Colombia

Today Paul and Kendra would finally be reunited, ideally Paul wanted to be at the hotel when Kendra arrived but he had learned he had to go to the Port of Cartagena to start the process to remove the vehicles.  He arrived at the port for 9am and worked with the Customs broker on the paperwork that was required.  It was around that time he realized that he forgot the keys to the van in the apartment, something he would definitely need.  He was incredibly frustrated with himself, especially since the hotel was 30 minutes from the port and he had a defined window of when he could get the vehicle out of the container.

Slightly less than an hour later (thanks to a crazy uber driver), he was back at the port and thankfully the Customs representative was later so there were no consequences for Paul forgetting the keys, other than the cost of the uber and his own frustration.

After driving the van out of the shipping container, but it still being in the port, Paul arrived back at the hotel and was so excited to see Kendra again.

Kendra landed in Bogota, Colombia at 4 am and cleared customs without any problems. When asked if she was staying in Bogota she said “no, I’m going to Cartagena”, and with that they stamped her passport and allowed her in, without asking for any proof of onward travel (we do know people who were not so lucky and had to buy a plane ticket out of the country in order to clear immigration, so while the $6 ticket wasn’t needed it was a good safety net).  Kendra successfully made her way from the airport to the hotel where Rupert was waiting for her.  He was unsure of whether he wanted to interact with her initially, but once he realized who she was, he was thrilled to see her and let out his typical seal sounds. Eventually Paul arrived back to the hotel and although Kendra was exhausted from her journey we spent hours talking about our time apart.  We spoke so much that Paul missed a call from his customs broker asking him to return to the port to sign some documents.  Once again he had to make a mad dash to the port.

After Paul’s return we celebrated our time back together by going out for dinner and going to bed early.

 

June 8^th – The Heavens Opened Up

Paul had only booked the hotel for 2 nights so it was time to book and go to a new hotel.  Paul booked one closer to the old city.  We had hoped to just get a taxi there but the skies had opened up about two hours before check out; flooding the city of Cartagena and many of its streets.  We returned the key to our room and sat inside the hotel lobby with many other people, watching the rain pour down as the water level in the streets continued to rise.

Watching the storm roll in

5 minutes later

 Once it stopped raining we decided it was time to venture outside. It was crazy with water everywhere above our ankles.  It was difficult to find a taxi, which was made worse since we didn’t have any cash to pay for the taxi so we had to walk in ankle high water for a couple kilometers to find a bank and then find a taxi.

We were exhausted when we finally arrived to our hotel and we were all filthy.  Paul asked the doorman if this amount of rain was normal, which we were informed it was not normal, especially when it comes this fast in such a short time.

Kendra decided that she needed to rest meaning Paul had to walk into the old city to find a money exchange place to prepare the money for importing the vehicle into Colombia.  After ensuring we had the money we needed we ordered some sushi and relaxed for the rest of the night.

 

June 9^th – BEARRY is out! 

Paul got the word early in the morning to go to the custom brokers office for 10am to pay our fees and get our van out of the port (unfortunately the cost had increased 15% from what we were quoted a week ago).  We had insurance and customs had cleared the van to drive in Colombia.  By 1pm Paul was driving the van and drove 30 minutes from the port to our hotel and it was at this point he truly realized the different driving culture in Colombia, half aggressive + half defensive = all slightly scary.  It will definitely take us a few days to get used to driving here.

We parked the van at the hotel and went through all our stuff making sure everything was good, unfortunately our solar battery was dead, which surprised Paul as he thought it would have charged in the sun when it got out of the shipping container.  He hoped that by trickle charging the battery it would bring it back to life, which it did, sort of.  The battery held a charge but who knows how long it would hold it and how quickly it would disappear. We will find out in the coming days.

We spent the afternoon wandering around and taking pictures of the old town.  It felt great to be exploring together again.  We stopped in for some lunch and even chatted with some locals.  Before we knew it the sun was setting so we sat down enjoyed sunset and made our way back to the hotel for some Netflix and dinner.

 

June 10^th – Together again

We woke up ready to explore as today we were finally reunited with all our stuff!  Most other overlanders we had made contact with left Cartagena the second they got their vehicle out of the port, but we decided we wanted more time exploring the city, and decompressing from our time apart.

Even though we finally had our van, we decided we would walk everywhere as our hotel was pretty close to the old city.  The old city is separated into two key areas, specifically El Centro, which we had explored yesterday and Getsemani, the trendy area just south of El Centro, which we planned to explore today.

We started in the Central Park which is known for its Monkeys and Sloths in the trees.  It didn’t take us long to find monkeys, but the sloths were a little more elusive.  We even sacrificed our health by purchasing large quantities of ice cream from the vendors in the park hoping that the sloths would see our ice cream and come down the trees to try to get a taste.  Surprisingly this plan didn’t work.

We would have stayed longer looking but a storm was rolling in so we did as the locals and made our way into the heart of Getsemani.  Everyone was mostly going into coffee shops and stores to avoid the rain, but we didn’t get the memo and instead kept on exploring until the storm created a drizzle, which turned into a downpour.  We ran into the nearest business which just happened to be a brewery; very convenient! 

After the rain we finished our exploring of the area and made our way back to our hotel, only stopping to enjoy sunset on the old city wall.  However, we didn’t want to just relax tonight, we were in a celebratory mood, so we decided to go out for dinner and see where the night would take us. 

Paul had been told the place to go at night in Cartagena is Plaza de Trinidad so we thought to head there for dinner.  We found a restaurant looking over the plaza and after eating dinner and having a drink we realized one thing, we were exhausted.  Not wanting to call it a night before 9am, we made our way to the plaza itself where we purchased a beer off the street and watched street performers (one even tried to get Kendra to salsa with him, but she refused- and thank goodness because the next person he offered a dance to accepted and she knew what she was doing).  We also learned that if we could do tonight over again we would have just eaten in the plaza itself as it was full of delicious street food; live and learn.

By the time we got back to our hotel it was…10:30pm, we definitely did not have a night of dancing and partying, but at we had a good night.

 

June 11^th – Our first night camping in South America!

It was time to get in the van and leave Cartagena.  We needed a spot where we could reorganize the van after getting the van out of the shipping container and do some experiments on the solar battery to see if we needed a new one after accidently allowing it to get to absolute zero during the van’s crossing.  We decided the best place to do this work would be on the beach so we drove south to the Baru Peninsula. 

The Peninsula is home to some top tourist attractions for the Cartagena area such as the Aviary of Colombia and the White Beach.  We did think about going to the White Beach but decided against it after we saw how aggressive the street vendors were enroute to the beach, they would literally jump in front of your vehicle, grab on to it and demand you hire them to take you to the beach and help you explore the area.  The whole experience was really off-putting so we decided instead to camp at a private beach for the night known for bioluminescence. 

Once we parked at our camping spot we started the process of reorganizing, which seemed to take forever, especially since it was 37 degrees.   We did eventually got the van back the way we wanted it but had learned that we would need to replace our solar battery.  The highest percentage it would charge was 65% and its charge would dissipate in an hour or so when charging a phone, or 8 hours when running our 12 V fan.

The rest of the night was spent researching where we could potentially get a new battery, the likely price we would have to pay and what we would do tomorrow.  Late at night we did check to see if we could see any bioluminescence but unfortunately the water was calm and there was nothing to see.

 

June 12^th – Busy busy

We woke up early thanks to the heat coming off the sun.  It wasn’t completely out of our plan to wake up early as we wanted to go to the Aviary as early as possible to avoid the heat so as soon as we finished breakfast we drove the 5 minutes to see the birds of Colombia.  We highly recommend coming to the Aviary if you are in the Cartagena area.  We are not too sure when in our life we decided looking at birds was awesome, but we definitely have hit that point.  They had so many different types of birds from every corner of Colombia.  The whole area was designed for ease of viewing and it wasn’t hard to take 1000s of photos. 

After getting our fill of birds and the heat (and mosquitos in the area) we made our way to Cartagena to purchase a solar battery.  Kendra had created a long list of potential stores but what we didn’t realize is that they would all be closed as this Monday was a holiday Monday.  We did try, going to no less than 4 different shops but it was always the same result; closed. 

It was getting close to lunch time so we decided to go for lunch and make a battle plan.  We also had to return to Cartagena because Paul’s credit card had arrived to the city with another traveler (long story) and he obviously needed it.

Colombia is a big diverse country and it became apparent that other cities would likely also sell batteries to replace our solar battery so we decided to head north towards Santa Marta stopping in at Volcan del Totumo and Barranquilla.

By the time we made it to Volcan del Totumo we knew we were done for the day, thankfully we were able to camp near the volcano.  Now we thought we had seen enough volcanos on this trip, but this one was different, it was a mud volcano where people could climb up to the top and jump into the crater of the volcano full of mud of “health” properties.

We got our swim suits on and jumped in and we must say this was an experience like no other.  The mud is so dense and viscous that it is impossible to drown yourself, you are just too buoyant, but it is very easy to get very dirty.

After thoroughly enjoying the mud we climbed out and walked to the nearby lake to wash the mud off all while grabbing our swimsuits to prevent the mud from weighing them down and making them fall to our knees.  Even after cleaning for what seemed like an hour we kept on finding mud on ourselves and were curious how muddy our bed would be when we woke up tomorrow morning.

 

June 13^th – Fast moving food

We had a horrendous sleep, it was soo hot and due to a bad solar battery we had very little air flow.  We needed a new battery now.  We left early and made our way to Barranquilla (home of Shakira) where we had found a battery online for $400 CAD that would do the trick, it was more than we wanted to spend but we didn’t think we had any other options. 

We arrived at the store and asked to buy the battery but were shocked when they were hesitant to sell it to us.  They wanted to see our solar system and the battery and understand why we thought we needed a new one.  After some discussion they grabbed our dead battery and took it to the back of their store and after 15 minutes returned saying the battery was fixed.  They determined that all we needed was to change the battery acid so they removed all our old acid and replaced it with new acid and charged us $6 CAD!!  We were in disbelief. 

Still unconvinced the battery was fixed we watched the voltage and percentages like a hawk as we drove to Santa Marta, getting more and more excited the more it charged in the sun.  By the time we reached Santa Marta we were convinced our battery was actually fixed.

After such a horrible night sleep Kendra decided we needed to get a hotel for the night, with the heat on the Caribbean coast Paul was not going to complain.  We arrived at our hotel and saw that the van wouldn’t fit in the carpark with the propane and tire on the roof (which seems to be the norm).  Paul was feeling lazy so he decided to park the van on the road, which the hotel assured him would be fine as it was a safe area and they had cameras onto the road right outside the parking garage door.

We explored the cute city of Santa Marta, but before we knew it the heat was starting to get to us so we returned to the hotel.  Kendra went back to the room but Paul stayed back to grab a few things from the van we had forgotten.

While Paul retrieved our tooth brushes and deodorant an obviously drunk man approached Paul asking for money.  Paul told him he didn’t have his wallet, which was the truth, and then the man lost his mind.  The ask turned into a demand as he told Paul he had been watching our vehicle and that he had placed cardboard on the windshield to protect it from the sun.  Paul once again said he had no money and the man got angrier.  He threw the cardboard and started getting in Paul’s face trying to fight him, Paul tried his best to de-escalate the situation, but the man was too drunk.  Thankfully people on the street came to Paul’s defense, but after saying the guy was crazy things became more heated.  Thankfully he had turned his attention to the people on the street, yelling about how our vehicle says its from “Columbia” and it’s British and that we are in Colombia.  Paul knew it was time to move the van, especially when the man started to throw food at the van.  Paul ran into the hotel grabbed Kendra and the hotel security and proceeded to take the tire and propane off the roof and park in the parking garage.  We really hope having a license plate from British Columbia does not make any other people mad.

One of the perks of the hotel was that it had a pool on the roof, which obviously was the best place to be after getting food thrown at us and the van during the heat of the day. As a storm rolled through the city we were excited to see a rainbow after the storm, which then turned into a double rainbow. Before we knew it the sun had set and we decided to explore the night life of Santa Marta.  We left the hotel and were surprised almost instantly to be offered cocaine by some random vendor on the street, we decided against purchasing any.  We did find a cute restaurant that accepted dogs and had a few locally brewed beers to decompress from the day.

 

June 14^th – To the mountains!!

The plan was to go to Tayrona National Park for the day then make our way to the mountains of Minca for the evening however as we made our way to the National Park we started to have doubts that this was a good idea; it was approaching 40 degrees.    Tayrona is said to have some of the most beautiful beaches in all of Colombia and is labelled as a must see by many guidebooks, but the thought of sitting on a beach in the heat didn’t seem all that appealing to us.  However, our fear of missing out was kicking in so we made our way to the national park.

When we arrived, we were informed that the local indigenous people had closed the park to visitors to cleanse the land and that it would be closed for the next few days.  We couldn’t believe how okay we were with this and decided it just would be one of those things we wouldn’t do on the trip.  It was time to go to the mountains and enjoy some cool air!

We did do a short drive around Minca to check out the community but it became very obvious that this was not a town that a dodge grand caravan should be driving around in. The roads were either 4x4 roads or would be better tackled by a much narrower vehicle.

The campground we selected in Minca was at a Mirador/Pizzeria so we ordered some food and sat at the mirador.  The view of Santa Marta and the ocean was amazing and it was easy to waste hours just looking out.  The cool air even allowed us to return to the van and have a nap midway through the day. 

We did eventually wake up and take a walk to the “downtown” of Minca but after exploring we decided we would enjoy just splitting a bottle of wine and playing boardgames in the van as the cool air allowed us to enjoy camping again.  It was today that I think we started getting more excited at the idea of camping our way through Colombia and South America.

 

June 15^th – Exploring Mountain Waterfalls

We debated about taking a tour to the various water falls in the Minca area, but didn’t want to leave Rupert behind during the day, and it was “only” a 5 km hike to the furthest away waterfall.  We packed his backpack and lots of water and started the trek up the mountain road.

It was a trail where we went up the mountain but it wasn’t too steep and after a couple kilometers we reached the first waterfall, named the Ears of the world.  We jumped into our swimsuits and relaxed in the cool water.  Even Rupert, the dog who isn’t a huge fan of water, approached the waters edge to cool down.

After sufficiently cooling down we made our way to the next grouping of waterfalls, the Marinka Waterfalls which surprisingly was dog friendly, and maybe more surprisingly Rupert was able to walk all the way from the town up the mountain road for 5 km without needing to go into his backpack. The cooler air is doing wonders for all of us.

The waterfalls were full of people, but we still thoroughly enjoyed them.  If anything, we found the water a little cold, a weird sensation as we mostly just feel hot the past few months.

Much to our surprise Rupert was able to walk the entire 10 kilometres but he was DONE once we returned back to the van.  He jumped into the van and went to bed.  We weren’t ready to sleep and enjoyed last night so much we decided to do the exact same thing again.  We made our way back to the mirador/pizzeria for another sunset, walked into town for a bottle of wine but decided to pick up a bunch of street food to eat in the van as we watched a movie. We had a cheese filled breadstick, a fried potatoe mixture stuffed with a hard boiled egg, and some empanadas.

 

June 16^th – We drove

We left Minca with the hopes to drive back to the mountains near a place called La Playa de Belen, but after over 8 hours driving and traveling 370 kilometres through construction zones and narrow mountain roads we were done with driving.  The only issue is that after the long day of driving we were still in the lowlands of Colombia meaning it is HOT.  We decided to get a hotel in Aguachica and after going outside around 10pm and feeling that the temperature was still over 30 degrees we were happy to return to our airconditioned room.

 

June 17^th – I want to open my door!

This morning we woke up and headed back towards the mountains.  Our destination was a cute town called La Playa De Belen, which Kendra forgot to tell Paul that this town was located in a no-go area according to the government of Canada’s guidelines, which we usually try to follow since we know what happened last time we were in a state that the government of Canada said to avoid.  In Kendra’s defense we were “barely in the no-go state of North Santander”, i.e 2 hours into it. Before arriving at the unique rock formations, we had to go through a military check point.  This was the first checkpoint in Colombia that we were pulled over to the side for; all other check points we have been waved through.  The military person reached his hand into our van and shook Paul’s hand and asked a few questions, but he spoke extremely fast. With Kendra still not speaking Spanish and Paul understanding ¼ of the words at this speed it was an interesting interaction. At one point Paul was confused and instead of asking if the military person would like us to open the doors to show the van Paul informed the man “I want to open my door”. The man seemed taken aback by Paul so willingly wanting to open the door that the man wished us well on our journey and let us go.

We arrived to Las Estoraques and decided we would camp amongst these unique rock formations for the night. Unfortunately all the signs for the park said no dogs allowed, so Rupert stayed in the van (it was around 22 Celsius). However, it seems like rules are not enforced in this park because everyone who had a dog with them entered the park with their dog. While we are sure Rupert would have enjoyed the walk, we knew he would enjoy relaxing in the van too.  Get ready Disney fans! A fun fact about these rock formations is that they were the inspiration for Bruno’s Room in the movie Encanto!

After completing our hike and taking too many pictures, we stopped at the concession for some ice cream and Guarapo, a fermented sugar cane beverage. We then returned to the van and rested for the remainder of the day.

June 18- “German, no, I’m not hungry now, I may be hungry later”

We are trying to slow down on our trip and really enjoy one place for longer than we have in previous countries.  So, after leaving the cool rocks we went to a few other cool rocks, located on private property behind a locked gate.  We did consider not crossing the locked gate, BUT Rupert climbed under the barbed wire fence so we had to follow him!  The area was known as “the rooms” and was a giant natural opening decorated with crosses and statues of the virgin Mary.  We think this area is used by local religious groups for religious “celebrations”.

Next stop in this area is known as Los Pinos, a pine tree forest planted on a hill overlooking the town of La Playa De Belen.  The trees are in perfect rows and were planted between 1985 and 1986. This was a popular area for people to have a picnic and lots of families had gathered here, probably for a Father’s Day outing. We had a not quite ripe Lulo (our new favourite fruit) and then had some Mango frozen treats and some rice pudding.  One thing we have noticed in Colombia is that they seem to love cheese. Paul ordered a hot chocolate in Minca which came with cheese cubes to add in and here they asked if we wanted cheese on our rice pudding.   When in Rome… while we like rice pudding and we like cheese, we will not be pairing those two items together again in the near future. 

After lounging in the shade of the palm trees we went to find a campsite for the night.  There were 2 options we were seriously considering, and when the first one didn’t pan out, a restaurant, due to it being busy for Father’s day so we went to the second option. The second one was a tranquil backyard garden with little cabanas you can rent, multiple sitting areas and multiple areas with hammocks.  We were right downtown so we wandered town, had some ice cream, and climbed the hill up to the cemetery for views of the town.  We headed back to the campground and decided to climb up the other side of the valley for sunset. Again, this trail crossed through private property, but it had a price listed.  We were greeted by the guard dog but no one was around to pay, so we climbed to the lookout and figured we would pay on the way down. No one was around on our way down, so we didn’t pay at all (the cost was supposed to be $2000 pesos, so less than $1 cad). We returned to the van for dinner and spent the night watching the stars rise over the church towers.

 

June 19- Roadside Food

This morning Paul was talking with our campsite neighbours who had a Colombian plated vehicle and told them how much we were enjoying their country.  The man laughed a little and let Paul know he is from Venezuela but that he enjoys Colombia too.  We had actually been surprised how many Venezuelan license plates we had seen in La Playa de Belen, but we were only about 150kms from the border.  Our Venezuelan neighbour assured us that their country is beautiful, but wanted to make sure that we would not be visiting it as it was not safe due to political and social challenges. We were aware of the challenges going on in Venezuela and had hoped that this family would say that everything is great but their insistence made us think we probably shouldn’t go to Venezuela today (We actually never had plans to go [don’t worry parents!]).

Instead of going to Venezuela we started to make our way to Chicamocha Canyon. We haven’t fully figured out if Waze or Google time estimates are fully correct in Colombia so we were unsure if we would make it to the canyon today or not.

As has become a tradition with our driving days we buy almost any homemade food items being sold by people on the side of the road. Today’s treats included empanadas, a small brick of fruit leather with cheese, and meringues/pavlovas. We skipped on trying the roasted ants since you get quite a few in a bag and we haven’t enjoyed eating bugs in the past.  But let us tell you about the pavlovas!!! These were the BEST we have ever had. Paul had a mangocuya pavlova (mango and maracuya which is passion fruit) with a dulce de leche filling. Kendra went for the classic with whipped cream, berries and guabana.  Kendra ate hers right away and then spoon fed Paul his since Paul was driving but after Kendra’s rave reviews he couldn’t wait to try his. We wish Canada had more roadside vendors selling food because it means you can eat on the go, and we have yet to be disappointed by something we bought on the road.

Around 3:30 we arrived at the bottom of Chicamocha Canyon where we stopped to buy some drinks and Paul ran into a cyclist he had met on his sailboat adventure (actually he was the man he had to share a bed with). We still feel that cyclists are the crazy people doing the pan-american highway because it was 38 degrees when we saw him at the gas station.  Luckily he was staying at the gas station hotel since it was too hot and would climb the 1400 metres out of the canyon on his bike the next morning before it was too hot.

Around 4:00 we arrived at the canyon and decided to camp at the “national park” for the night. The reason we put national park in quotation marks is because it was more of an amusement park than a national park.  We paid our dues and Rupert was able to join us as we were ushered onto the gondola that took us down into the canyon and back up.  After about 15 minutes on the ride we realized this was the longest gondola we have ever been on. After another 12 minutes we arrived to the other side. We had about 30 minutes to explore before needing to return to the other side as the park was going to close. The views were breathtaking, but this was one of the more expensive excursions we have done in Colombia, although we still haven’t reached our daily budget of $200 cad for the day.  After riding the gondola for the 27 minute ride back we explored the other side of the park.

After exploring the rest of the park and checking out the views we cooked some ramen for dinner, played some cribbage and then headed to bed.

 

June 20- “Is there any bags of poop here?”

While it wasn’t planned we have now been inspired by Encanto, so our next stop is the town of Barichara, which inspired the town and houses in Encanto.  First we dropped our laundry off in the neighbouring community of San Gil where Paul once again messed up when asking for something in Spanish.  We needed poop bags for Rupert so Paul walked into a pet store and confidently asked if they had any bags of poop, not bags for poop; the owner burst into laughter and kept saying “bolsa de caca” and chuckling to himself the entire time Paul was in the store.

After Paul suffered his embarrassment we made our way to Barichara. This cute colonial town is in the mountains above the Suarez River and is full of white houses with red tiled roofs surrounding cobblestone streets. It looks like the movie and we enjoyed wandering around, having some coffee, and taking in the sights.

By mid-afternoon the sun was beating down and we made our way towards where we thought we would camp for the night.  While many people had stayed in the town before, we just felt like we couldn’t get comfortable at the mirador and made our way to a paid campground owned by some former overlanders from the Netherlands.  It has been a long time since we have camped with others and there were 3 other vehicles their when we arrived with one more arriving later in the evening. Everyone we have spoken to here is on a different trip.  There is a couple from France who are at the end of their trip through South America and are getting ready to ship soon from Cartagena back to their home. There is a couple from Germany who have been here for a few days but they are at the beginning of their trip around South America, and then there is a couple who are originally from Colombia but have lived in Florida for a few years and started their trip from Atlanta. It is amazing to meet people in the same place but hearing about everyone’s different journeys.

 

June 21- Fixing the airbag sensor…. finally?!

While our next destination of Las Gachas is calling, we decided to spend one more day at the campsite.  It is refreshing to sleep in cool mountain air and talk with other travellers. Somehow we seem to pick places to stay that haven’t had many travellers or overlanders, so we are always excited to meet new people and pick their brains for recommendations or places to avoid.

We did have to drive back to San Gil to pick up our laundry but then had a relaxing day organizing the van and writing the blog.

Frustratingly enroute back to Barichara the airbag sensor came on but this time it did not turn off, it was on permanently.  Our hearts sank, we actually seemed to have a problem we would need fixed.  As some may remember we have been battling our airbag sensor light for almost a year we even mentioned it in our blog post for July 6^th.  To avoid scaring our families we didn’t mention how often in the last year this light on our dashboard would illuminate but it would always turn off after a couple minutes so we lied to ourselves saying it was fine.  Again, today it wouldn’t turn off, so Paul did a deep dive and troubleshooted the fuses and the wiring and found a lose connections under the passenger seat.  We turned the vehicle on and the light did not illuminate.  Fingers crossed and hopes are high that we may have finally fixed this issue.

Paul ended up taking a hike to the townsite of Barichara while Kendra relaxed with Rupert and our evening was spent with the other overlander listening to a traveling musician serenade us beside the fire.  GOOD DAY!