April 20th – Feeling like true overlanders again
We explored Ocotal and neighbouring communities and even
tried to go to a few places where coffee beans are harvested, assuming we could
see the process and have more coffee, but these of course are industrial places
with security, they did not let us in.
We ended up driving to a lake in a “fresh” area of the
country (at least this is how the women who owned the restaurant we spent the
night at described it) hoping to keep our trend of keeping ourselves cool by
staying in the mountains. We had planned
to stay at a formal campground but missed the turn and ended up at the public
dock which was pretty much empty except for a giant German Unimog. Since the German’s appeared to be camping at
the dock we decided we would be true overlanders and also camp at the
dock.
Our spot seemed great with an amazing view of Lake Apanas
but before we knew it our German friends decided to leave (without saying hello
or goodbye) leaving us alone for the night.
Maybe they knew something we didn’t like the plague of bugs that descended
upon our campground as soon as it got dark.
We had never seen so many bugs!!
It didn’t take us long to retreat into our van for the night while
ensuring all the windows were tightly closed.
April 21st – The best burger of our lives in Coffee
Country?!
We woke up planning for a slow start to the day; however, a local ended up coming to where we were camping demanding we pay for the use of the dock. We didn’t have any money to give him, nor would we have, however once he started to explain that he was starving we decided to repay the hospitality of the woman of the previous night and give him some meat to eat. He accepted the meat and went on his way. This is when we learned that Nicaragua is the poorest country we would be visiting on our entire Pan-American journey.
Our next stop was the community of Matagalpa which had a
coffee museum. Finding parking was a bit
of an adventure but after a bit of backtracking we successfully found a spot
for the van. As we walked to the coffee
museum Paul thought to throw the garbage out.
Most countries we go to have lots of garbage receptacles in the El
Centro areas, but I guess not Nicaragua!
Paul ended up carrying two bags (small grocery sized bags) of garbage
throughout the town looking for somewhere to put it. When we finally made it to the museum Paul
gave up and just placed the garbage beside the entrance hoping maybe someone
would steal it.
After checking out the coffee museum Paul was “surprised” to
see his garbage was exactly where he left it, so he picked it up again and
right before getting back to the van found a proper place to put it.
Kendra decided to head to another viewpoint which according to iOverlander was difficult for a 2wd vehicle to drive to, but thankfully this was not our experience and we finally reached a viewpoint of the area, which even had a restaurant. We usually find that restaurants at touristy places tend to be expensive and subpar, but this was not our experience today. Somehow the burgers were some, if not the best burgers we have ever had. It sort of blew our minds, if someone would have told us this morning that we would be having the best burgers ever today, we probably wouldn’t have believed them. So, if you are in Matagalpa, head to La Republica and try the Hamberguesa Don Mauricio, 10/10, or if two patties is too much the classic burger is excellent as well!
Of course, with every high there will eventually be a low,
and ours was very shortly after leaving Matagalpa. We broke the law, we were stuck behind a very
slow moving vehicle and passed (with all the other Nicaraguans) on a sold
(singular) yellow line. Well, there
happened to be a police officer right in front of us after passing. We knew we had messed up and apologized hoping
we would just get a warning, but the officer said that we broke the law and
would have to pay a fine equivalent to $100 CAD. We were willing to pay. The issue is that we would have to pay,
according to the police officer, in Leon the nearest big city and that to
ensure we pay the fine he would be taking Paul’s license and could get it back
in 15 days or so. We spoke back and
forth for a bit when finally, he said, give me what you have in your wallet and
we can forget this happened. Thankfully
we had the equivalent of $5 in our wallet so we once again bribed the police
and we were allowed to leave.
Our night ended at a Cigar factory which allowed overlanders
to camp for free, but usually with these sorts of arrangements you’re expected
to help out the business. So, for the same price as our police bribe Paul had
purchased a cigar, something he hadn’t had since his Cuba days. He was really overzealous with his smoking
and after smoking the whole thing his headrush could only be described as
“extreme”.
April 22nd – Finding our Limitations
Esteli was crazy because, as we quickly learned, there was a
festival going on. We wish we could tell
you that we explored this festival and had authentic local experiences but we
knew we were getting burnt out again and found the festival very loud and
overwhelming. We got the coffee (it was
amazing) and quickly left.
Similarly, to Guatemala, Nicaragua is known for its volcanos
so we decided to drive up and camp near a volcano. We also planned to hike to the crater around
sunset to see lava, unfortunately our plans didn’t come to fruition.
We had read a variety of different reviews of the road up to
Telica Volcano and although some said 4x4 is required, other’s implied we, in
our dodge grand caravan would make it. Well,
we did need 4x4 because after driving for 15 kilometers we turned the corner
and got stuck in volcanic sand.
We did start the process of trying to get unstuck but
thankfully some people on a formal tour to the volcano found us and they
decided to help us (because we were blocking the road). With 3 people pushing the van we were free of
our predicament, but before leaving and after we thanked them the tour
guide/driver was clear; “this road is for 4x4 only, it gets worse from here, you
must leave this area”.
April 23rd – Taking our break
The hotel was really good, it came with breakfast, it had
wifi and a pool. We decided to just
spend all our time in the hotel relaxing watching youtube or Netflix and
chilling out.
Our “room” was a thatched roof bungalow with a private
outdoor shower(beside the outdoor toilet and sink) and was everything you’d
envision a perfect little tropical vacation would look like. This break was so needed!
April 24th – Exploring Leon
Leon is the third largest city in Nicaragua with a rich history associated with the rebellions against American imperialism. It’s known as the Liberal city (with Granada being the Conservative city) so we were excited to check it out.
Our first stop was dropping off some laundry meaning we’d
have the entire day to explore Leon before returning to pick up our
laundry. Unfortunately, we found Leon a
little underwhelming. Maybe it is
because we were still burnt out, or maybe because it was another colonial town
after we had already seen so many.
Regardless this one seemed a bit rough around the edges.
The best part of the museum is we got a great overview of
Leon from the roof of the museum. This
roof was in rough shape. No regulator
would ever allow anyone to step on this roof back in Canada but if it is good
enough for Nicaragua its good enough for us, and again the views of Leon,
Momotombo Volcano and the volcanoes in the distance were amazing.
April 25th – EXTREME SAND BOARDING
One of the top things to do in the Leon area is to go to Cerro Negro Volcano and sand board down the volcano. Well, we couldn’t not do that! We hope you’re not hating the double negatives there! We left the hotel and made our way down roads that gave us flashbacks to our adventure going to Telica Volcano but this time we arrived unscathed.
We were unsure how the process of volcano boarding would
work, especially since we were not on a formal tour. The process to rent the equipment was easy,
we were given safety glasses, gloves and denim overalls as well as a sand board
to toboggan down the mountain on. To our
surprise we had to hike with all this equipment to the top of the volcano and
the hike was nothing to scoff at.
In truth it was a lot of work for a few moments of fun. We are glad we did it but decided against
hiking the 30 or 45 minutes back up the mountain to do it again.
We had originally thought to camp at Cerro Negro but because
we had already finished sandboarding and it was already 32 degrees at noon, we
decided to leave and camp (as well as enjoy AC in the van as we drove) south.
After eating our leftover pizza and sorting out our laundry, which
unfortunately is not looking as clean as it usually does when it has been
washed, we cranked the AC and hit the road.
We ended up finding a spot near the shores of Lake Xolotlan
on the side of Chiltepe Volcano. The
place was almost fine, except we started to hear shooting which freaked us out
a bit but it was too late for us to leave without good reason, and the shooting
stopped as soon as the sun went down. If
only we had known that we were camping beside a militarized area; however, I’m
not sure we would have felt any safer.
April 26th – Detours for Ice Cream, Cheese and
Beer
We woke up and left our volcano hideaway and headed towards some communities in the mountains known for dairy which also contained a brewery. Seemed like the perfect one hour detour.
We left our camping spot and were surprised to immediately
see warning signs for a military zone on the other side of the road, the more
we drove the more military people we saw, making us first worried we had made a
terrible mistake in where we were driving and second glad we had not driven
this way to get to our camping spot as we would have turned around and who knows
where we would have camped?
Our next stop should have been the brewery, but it never
materialized. We followed google, waze,
and facebook and any other bit of information to find its location but in the
end gave up after multiple failed attempts.
Our final stop on our
detour was the community of Jinotepe, known for its sweets and ice cream. We indulged in the best rice pudding we had
ever had and ice cream that Nicaraguans travels hours on the weekend to
get. The whole time we were in the ice
cream place we saw a constant stream of people coming and ordering 4 to 8 ounces
of ice cream then heading to work, school or home. We each ordered 8 oz.
(Passion Fruit and Jack Fruit flavour) and enjoyed people watching.
After completing the detour, it was time to return to our main plan for the day, to see lava! The easiest place to see lava in Nicaragua is Masaya Volcano, so we had planned to drive to the volcano, wait until nightfall and see lava for ourselves. When we arrived to the entrance to the volcano we were told we were unable to enter the park until 4:30 so we had a couple hours to kill which we spent at a restaurant overlooking Lake Masaya and wandering through the town of Nindiri.
Closer to 4:30 we headed back to the volcano and we were
blown away by how many overlanders were going to be joining us on our trip to
the crater of Masaya Volcano. After seeing
one or two at any given time, suddenly there were 6 of us, one we had even seen
multiple times starting in the Yukon!
After entering the park, we did have more time to wait until
sunset so we checked out the museum of the volcano and did a couple hikes in
the park. We even got in trouble, after
hiking around to the old Masaya Crater viewpoint which we learned was
forbidden, they really should have put up a sign, or maybe we missed the sign
because it was dark? We really do try hard to be respectful and not break any
rules, so we were apologetic to the park ranger when he said we weren’t
supposed to be where we were.
In the end we watched the lava with everyone else at the
defined viewing platform until we were told the park was closing, at that time
we headed to the entrance where many overlanders camp for the night.
This is another one of those times where we were thankful
for our compact size. There were very limited spaces for wild camping, and 3
spots had been taken by one Unimog, and our friends in the sprinter had the
second spot, but we were able to squeeze in between some trees. Unfortunately, the other overlanding vehicles
would have to find somewhere else to camp, after dark, which is something we
would have struggled with.
April 27th – Previously White Coloured Buildings
South of Masaya we had read about a half dozen communities
collectively known as Los Pueblos Blancos (or White Towns) known for their
white coloured stucco buildings. We left
our camping spot and headed south to the communities, but were surprised at how
few white coloured buildings there were!
We had assumed they would be like the communities we had previously seen
in Spain, but instead we were greeted by newly painted, very colourful
buildings. Were these the white buildings
we had read about, just now newly painted?
Who knows?!? We did stop at a
view point of Lake Apoyo in the community of Catarina where we decided to have
a drink and a slice of pie while we watched tour groups arrive, take one
picture then head to the tourist shops to shop.
After seeing three of the “white towns” full of colourful
newly painted building we left the area, a bit confused, and headed towards
Granada. Kendra originally wanted to
spend the evening exploring Granada, maybe even going out for dinner, but after
arriving at the campground in the heat of the day, we thought it better to play
some card games in the gardens found at the campground.
April 28th – Exploring Granada
After completing an Amazon order of things Kendra will pick up in Canada when she is back we headed towards Granada’s El Centro. Granada is a beautiful and colourful colonial city. It may be one of the most colourful we have seen. We spent hours walking and exploring only stopping for smoothies or fruit juices.
April 29th – And this is why you make reservations
One location in Nicaragua that was highly recommended to us
was Ometepe Island and we always try to do everything that is recommended for
us to do, unfortunately, we were warned that reservations are recommended for the
ferry to the island especially if it is was weekend, well today is Saturday.
We left Granada after a quick stop for water a drove to
Rivas. We had been warned of some corrupt
police officer between Granada and Rivas but never had any issues. After arriving at the ferry terminal, we
decided to not park in the terminal itself as there was fee to enter it and we
just wanted to make a reservation, ideally for today. Paul left Kendra to figure out when we could
get on the ferry and was inundated with tour operators all trying to “help”
him. Usually in these situations
(booking finite tickets for a specific event [sailing]) people tend to try to take
advantage of tourists. The typical line
is that “we need their help as there is no way we can figure this out ourselves
and even if we could it is all booked up”.
Well, they stated most of the typical line, with one key change,
everyone said that its all booked up completely for today and the rest of the
weekend. Paul frantically tried to find
a ferry operator who would make a reservation for us but the earliest we go get
a ferry was Tuesday evening. Turns out it was a long weekend this weekend. What is worse, we wanted to go to Costa Rica
on Wednesday to maximize our time in the remaining countries in North America.
With heavy hearts we left Rivas knowing that Ometepe would not be a place we
would be able to visit on this trip, but at least it gives us a reason to return
to Nicaragua.
Back in Mexico a Belgium couple recommended a beach where
camping was free in southern Nicaragua and thankfully Kendra (with a pin on
google maps) remembered this just as we were starting to get concerned about
where to camp for the night. The beach
was known Playa Amarilla and it was everything we expected
Baja California to be. Camping spots in
shady locations two steps from sandy beaches with swimmable water and beautiful
sunsets. We quickly got over our
disappointment pretty quickly.
We found a perfect spot for us, set up the hammock and relaxed,
then before we knew it the sun had set and it was time for bed.
April 30th – We didn’t go to church, church came
to us
The praying turned into preaching and singing and back to
praying, YUP it was a church group that decided to do a seaside sermon literally
right beside our van. #blessed What was
worse, Paul was not wearing a shirt and Kendra was in a bikini, we seemed
totally out of place. #extremelyblessed? It was at this time we decided it was time to
leave our spot and allow the church group to enjoy it, we needed a few things
any way from the nearest community. Thus
started the most awkward takedown and pack up we had ever done. It really felt like we kept on getting in the
church group’s way with them preaching louder every time we came a bit closer
to them. Finally, we were packed up
enough that it was time to start the van and leave, but we didn’t know when the
polite time to leave would be as the van, and specifically the exhaust was
right beside and pointed at group. At this point, they had been preaching for
almost an hour with no sign of ending and we decided, whatever, if this is why
we go to hell so be it, we started up the van drove off our leveling blocks,
packed those aways and left our perfect spot. Don’t worry, due to the heat of
the day we were still wearing minimal clothing as we packed up around them, so
we definitely did not blend in with them, but it is the most naked we have ever
been and will ever be “at church”.
After getting our required provisions from the nearby
community we returned to the beach with the hope that the church group would
have left; unfortunately, we were wrong, they were still preaching an hour
later. The beach had also filled up with
locals enjoying their own long weekend.
Thankfully the beach was large enough that we were able to find another
spot to enjoy the day.
We spent the day playing boardgames under our awning, trying
to stay in the shade and running after the ice cream man that would routinely
bike past our camping spot. Periodically
locals would come and say hello, some even offered us lunch to trade for a bit
of salt. All in all it was a good day
and thanks to the church group probably not one we will ever forget.
May 1st – Beach(es) Day!
Today was the actual public holiday meaning the beach was again going to be busy so we decided to check out a few of the other beaches in the area, namely the ones Lonely Planet and Backpacker websites recommended.
Our first stop was Playa Guasacate within the community to Popoyo which had been heavily invested in by foreigners. Most of the beach was blocked by hotels and restaurants leaving just small openings for someone to walk through to the beach itself. The beach was fine, but lacked any greenery or shade meaning finding a cool spot to relax at was difficult due to the hot sand. We had just about given up trying to find enjoyment in at the beach when we saw a few locals relaxing close to a river that connects to the ocean. The river had created a large eddy perfect for swimming in that seemed to be the perfect temperature. The sand was also tolerable on our feet. The only issue we had is we didn’t have our swimsuits with us, so we decided to do as the Nicaraguans and go swimming in just our underwear, the first time we had actually done this on this trip!This swimming hole was amazing, no waves, not very salty, and
the perfect temperatures. We ended up
relaxing in the pools for longer than we should have (without reapplying
sunscreen), but I guess we will pay for that mistake later.
After such an enjoyable time at Playa Guasacate we decided
to go to the backpackers favourite Playa Popoyo, it was definitely far less
developed and just a couple hostels near the water, but the beach was not very
good. It was really hard to find
anything that would set it apart of any other beach. Once again there was no shade, and no where
to really swim, since it is known for waves and surfing. We walked around the beach hoping to find a
spot to enjoy but in the end decided to leave.
Although there were a few places we could camp in the area
we knew where we had camped for the last couple nights was the best. Even though it was busy during the day, by
4pm it was not busy at all, and it was almost that time, but we didn’t want to
go back to the beach quite yet, we had one more stop, a brewery.
By the time we arrived back to Playa Amarilla we practically
had the beach to ourselves so we set up our table and enjoyed this paradise.
May 2nd – The Dog Days of Nicaragua
The two most difficult borders for a dog to enter on the Pan-American
highway are the Costa Rican border and the Panama border (with Panama being the
most difficult). As we would be going to
Costa Rica tomorrow we had to spend today back in Rivas completing paperwork and
paying fees to export (and by extension Import) our dog.
The first step was the vet, the easy part. Rupert was checked out, he is healthy. We were given a couple documents and told to
go to the bank. There is only one bank
in Rivas where you can pay your fees for exporting your dog and it just so
happens to be the busiest bank with the longest lines. After waiting 20 minutes the lines inside the
bank were finally short enough for us to enter the bank itself. The security guard asked Paul why we were at the
bank, Paul told him we had to pay to export our dog and the security guard
placed Paul in a special line to see a Customer Service Representative. After waiting almost an hour Paul finally saw
the bank representative only to be told that the security guard placed him in
the wrong line, he needed to see a regular bank teller for that
transaction. The line for the bank
teller was massive.
With receipts from the bank and paperwork from the vet we
walked to Cetrex, a government office whose purpose is still a mystery, as IPSA
is the government agency responsible for import and export of animals (which we
had to pay a fee to at the bank and would be going to tomorrow at the border). The Cetrex employees took our paperwork,
typed some stuff in his computer and gave us a 8 digit number to quote at the
border and with that our day was done.
We had theoretically on paper exported Rupert to Costa Rica meaning we
could relax for the rest of the day, not that there was much of the day left.
We made our way to a backpacker hotspot known as San Juan del Sur where we actually found a brewery that was open and had local beers brewed by the brewery! We had a beer and talked through our options and our stresses. There was a lot of unknowns. We thought it best to get a hotel for the night so we at least would have a good night sleep in an air conditioned room and be able to have a shower. The spot we choose was a hostel which offered free yoga and a welcome drink. We are not too sure why, but we decided to take advantage of the free amenities and for the first time in our lives we did yoga. At the end of it we were glad we had done it as it got our mind off of our predicament.
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